niime 百科

Encyclopedia of niime

Long before joining ‘tamaki niime’, Tadanao Yamashita wished to make clothes since he was young. As a result, he has abundant experience in the apparel industry.


He was not satisfied with just creating designs. He worked through manufacturing fields, choosing materials before running a business, and made it part of himself. His professional attitude and passion for work are very similar to Tamaki’s.


He loves clothes and considers them a ‘universal language’. So we asked him about the current ‘Knit team’ and the unlimited potential that one-item products ‘tamaki niime’ creates.


At the beginning of this year, the ‘Knit team’ moved upstairs with the *WHOLEGARMENT and circular knitting machines. The mesh material is used on the second floor, where the knitting machines are installed to prevent making the first-floor dark.


*the most advanced weft-knitting machine which produce three dimensional knits without seams or sew.

Yamashita

We have increased demand for knit tops, outfits, and other product items. Each time we have trouble catching up on production, we get one more machine of each type. Since we have added a small and large WHOLEGARMENT, we now have three of each. Once we have more machines, we want to use them continuously. But we keep in mind to make samples, even though we know the importance of keeping pace with production.

—— You mean making samples, which are weaving experiments, right?

Yamashita

We are increasing use of the machines to make samples, without using all our time in production. With more machines, we can produce more. So, even though more production increases the workload for the final processes, we gain more time to create samples.

—— Would you tell me about your new challenges?

Yamashita

About weaving, we start by combining different coloured threads out of stocked in the laboratory. The combination of 3 or 4 lines makes it more interesting than using only one kind of thread.

—— I see.

Yamashita

But the most challenging part is that we never know if the combinations of threads give us satisfactory results or not. So we take time to work with such considerations.

—— Have you ever had any good unexpected results?

Yamashita

Yes, we have. We randomly pick colours and weave one small sample initially.

—— Do you pick the colours, Mr Yamashita?

Yamashita

Yes, I do with some designers. It is interesting to examine the experimental fabrics with fascinating textures by touch through weaving combinations of different threads. We feel so many possibilities there. When you hear the word ‘Designs’, you may have ideas of outfit shapes, but we start designing combinations of threads.

—— I see.

Yamashita

That’s why we are offering products that other companies don’t have.

Mr Yamashita has been making outfits in the apparel industry for a long time. He has known many different kinds of fabrics with his actual experience since he was young.

Yamashita

At the first company I worked for, they were concerned about selections of original cotton. So I like to focus on making an effort of being particular about that. At the stores, I checked the fabrics then check the designs to ensure textures. I have been doing this for a long time. Yeah, I still do it when I go to the outfit stores.

—— You understand by observation and physical examination.

Yamashita

There are some unique textures and materials made periodically back in the old days I have seen.

—— I see.

Yamashita

I wonder why we can’t make them today. It may sound illogical, but I feel special when touching my woven products with my selected threads. At that moment, I am aware that I have never felt such a sense of touch before. So when I discovered that I created new products, I was very excited and wanted to tell everyone.

—— I see. They must be the very first creation in the world.

Yamashita

Most people who only have a general understanding wouldn’t notice any difference, but it is utterly different for me.

Tamaki’s passion for developing softer shawls is similar to his tireless pursuit of unknown textile touches.

Yamashita

I basically like old clothes. So, having with my ideas about old-fashioned garments, I have been making modern clothes with the background images of the old days.

—— You are the type of person who digs deeper into your work.

Yamashita

I have been researching cotton, twisting conditions of threads, and whatever I could.

—— You are pretty diligent.

Yamashita

Because old clothing was created using designs when their means were lean. It made me think about why they designed them that way. Why do they put pockets here? I don’t know if I am right, but I examine them one by one and incorporate them into my designs after convincing myself. For example, I questioned why they used indigo dye for denim.

—— You still kept searching?

Yamashita

Yes, I have. I wouldn’t say I like designing only at the desk. I make patterns on my own.

—— I heard you have started using the threads of uneven dyes, which were dyed last year.

Yamashita

Actually, we already started using it a few years ago. We tried to make it and considered if such a thing could become popular for customers.

—— It was too innovative, right? (laugh)

Yamashita

That’s right. (laugh) It looks interesting, but we wondered who would want to wear it. We didn’t have an online shop yet at that time.

—— Oh, I see.

Yamashita

There were fewer people whom we could show our products to than now. Due to the limits, it was kind of an experiment that those products which are used dyed thread products would be acceptable. After we started our online store, we had more chances to display our products to customers. This increased those who purchased knit products, and we can challenge more things.

—— Putting up products on the online shop, you could get customers’ responses directly, making it easier for you to try more challenges.

Yamashita

That’s right. We have been making one-item products, and we can appeal to our unique products by knitting with randomly dyed threads. They make a distinctive difference.

—— I see.

Yamashita

I think that the products with dyed threads are the strength of our brand.

—— I see.

Yamashita

We depend on ‘accidents’. Even though we use the randomly dyed threads, how designs appear is different by knitting timing. I think that is an interesting point. Because of the random nature, we can’t calculate to get specifics; it just happens to create various designs.

—— I see.

Yamashita

The products we feel are exciting sell out quickly online. So we are excited about such quick responses.

—— You never know how they look until you see the final products, right?

Yamashita

Yes. Even though threads are not uneven dyes, we braid with four different colours, which we don’t know how colours are blended until they come out from the machines.

—— How far can you estimate? Such as designs?

Yamashita

I guess we can until the process of creating shapes.

—— So colours are dependent on chance?

Yamashita

We have some images of the items in mind. But using each thread for each item, we find out how it comes out at last, or even though we think we blend with challenging colours, we often find out the final item has colours with a more relaxing atmosphere.

—— That sounds fun. You would be thrilled, not just excited. (laugh)

Yamashita

I am so thrilled. (laugh) In the beginning, Ms Tamaki used to knit with the machines. I was mentored and learned a lot. I know how to select threads quickly now, but it was trial and error in the beginning. This year, I have been using coloured threads that we dyed here. We can have experiments because we are making one-item products. We couldn’t enjoy having experiments if we have to have mass production of the same items.

‘Dye’ × ‘Weave’ × ‘Sew’……when you multiply by each team experiment, the extension of possibilities for one-item productions of ‘tamaki niime’ is limitless.

Yamashita

Every time you make one item, you change thread colours. That proves to be exciting but challenging because you never know what colours come out. If you focus on pushing for the widespread sale of products, we couldn’t play with colour combinations. That would be the context.

As Ms Tamaki used to say, if we follow the original path, mass production of the same quality, we can’t focus on each customer. So instead, we have to use methods that assume people of the greatest common denominator.


—— If you try to make products that could be acceptable to a broader audience, you would tend not to take risks but instead follow more favourable trends.

Yamashita

You are exactly right.

—— For instance, if you create a ‘unique colour’ item, one out of 100 people may like it. You would be happy if that one person understands its attractiveness and buys it, right?

Yamashita

Yeah. We can’t say for sure that at least one person likes it, but assume someone may like it because some people understand such creativity.

—— That is a big motivation for you.

Yamashita

That is our strength of creating things. So we would like to increase our fans.

—— One-item creativity! Each one is different, and each one is special.

Yamashita

Even though there are no correct answers in creations, we have our imagination. So we are happy if people understand, enjoy, and come to purchase. Having so many clothes in the world, I think it’s possible to enjoy creating clothes or convince people to want them if we express our creativity clearly.

—— You mentioned before that you want to communicate with people by making clothes because clothes are a common world language. So having our online shop helps to make ‘tamaki niime’ products known to the world without borders.

Yamashita

It undoubtedly creates more opportunities for people to understand, but I wish more people would know more. I dream that our brand becomes a

Yamashita

world brand from Japan

. That’s why we want to send more messages to the world.

—— I see.

Yamashita

I want many people to know the ‘tamaki niime’ brand and enjoy it. For example, when we had a ‘SPIRAL’ event in Aoyama, Tokyo, one customer became a fan of one-item, and she has been buying our items ever since.

—— Did you talk to that customer?

Yamashita

Yes. I did. She initially liked vintage one-item clothes. She came to the event four out of the eight days. One-item products seem very special to her because she can’t have the same one if someone buys them.

—— It looks like a once-in-a-lifetime chance for customers and items.

Yamashita

That’s why I enjoy talking to customers. I try to tell how I feel and think about one-item products. Then, keeping one favourite item on my mind in the exhibition that day, I recommend customers to buy it. That’s why there is unique customer service because of one-item products. It’s fun to have conversations with customers. I have fun creating and talking to customers. I genuinely enjoy all aspects of this business, such as creativity and customer service.

—— Even customer service, one-item products have a particular way. Have you done customer service before?

Yamashita

Yes, I have experienced customer service and also sales. I worked at the cutting company, in-finish company, and in a factory folding T-shirts for a week because I wanted to know all about the apparel industry, including how workers think about their jobs. At the in-finish companies, I put various company tags, inspect them, and put them in bags and boxes. I wondered how they felt doing such tasks daily if they were enjoying their work. So I joined in and did everything to get to know them. When I worked at the embroidery shop, they readied my desk for work, and I made designs there.

—— You had many experiences concerning manufacturing things and learned first hand. Mr Yamashita, your experiences and knowledge are outstanding. I understand how much you are eager to explain to your young staff.

Yamashita

After all the experiences, I was fortunate to meet with Ms Tamaki and Mr Sakai. I am so happy to work with them.

—— Mr Tou mentioned making daily household items or daily necessities such as aprons. Are you working on them?

Yamashita

We have been making aprons, umbrellas, slippers, or loungewear for a while and adding more items.

—— You have been making lifestyle-based ideas more specific. ‘tamaki niime’ makes creating your wish-items come true. Are most requests and wishes from women?

Yamashita

Yes. I think so. I am responding to their requests; our female staff work to weigh their requests and give us suggestions. For me, I am particular about ‘clothes’.

—— You want to be committed to the details of clothes.

Yamashita

It is because I think I like clothes. (laugh) And I want to have more male customers.

—— Because you used to work in men’s clothing.

Yamashita

Yes, I did. ‘tamaki niime’ now has more images for female customers, but I want to change to get more male customers. I don’t want to change our creative ways, but I want more items for men to dress up as well.

—— Talking about men’s clothes, you could revisit your origin. Banshu-ori has a history that they used to make materials for men’s shirts mainly. I wonder if you could add your creative touch to it. I want you to develop men’s clothes as one of the significant shares of the future ‘tamaki niime’ products.

Yamashita

Yeah, I would like to.

—— At last, would you share your ambition and goals with us, please.

Yamashita

Well, I have not only been weaving but working on many designs. I want to take advantage of all my experiences and share my knowledge with people worldwide. My reason for getting into the apparel industry was that I wanted to connect with people worldwide through clothes. I have enjoyed this since I was young, and it hasn’t changed since. If you ask me what my goal is, I don’t know yet, or can’t see it at all. I want to make goals now and move forward.

—— I want you to know what your goals are.

Yamashita

My goal is the passion I had when I started into this industry in my youth. That is where I want to achieve my goal. Towards that goal, I want to challenge many things at ‘tamaki niime’. I want to send my creations which only ‘tamaki niime’ can make possible. I want to set up new ways of creativity and send them forward to people worldwide.

Due to traditional methods of consumer consumption, there is a problem with overproduction and quality with similar fashion. Even now, ‘tamaki niime’ creates and sends out their one-item products to meet current needs. They are focused on increasing production, to challenge the many possibilities.


‘One-item products’ have a precious one to one relationship with a creator and a consumer, that is, the one and only.


The brand’ tamaki niime’ has the potential to change the manufacturing system in the uncertain future, which may be a historical paradigm shift.


That’s how I felt from the conversations with Mr Yamashita, who knows all about the apparel industry and devotes all his energies and pursues his dreams at ‘tamaki niime’.

Original Japanese text by Seiji Koshikawa.
English translation by Adam & Michiko Whipple.